Wallis Simpson once said “You can never be too rich or too thin”.  This is the Manhattan mantra- New York City of course, where the women are rich and their pants are super skinny. Let’s face it, the skinny pant is not a passing trend. It has become a wardrobe staple and one that we all need to utilize.

The SB305 pant exudes New York sophistication. No other cocktail could personify it better than, what else, but the Manhattan. As an avid bourbon connoisseur this is a staple in the Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick recipe book. It is serious and glamorous, but also delicious the SBCC way with a splash of cherry juice: Check out the recipe: http://www.sbccpatterns.com/inspirational-cocktails/

Maybe you have noticed the recent addition of SB305 Manhattan Skinny Trouser to the Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Pattern line up. I’ve been so busy that I haven’t even had the opportunity for a proper statement about the new pattern. This is big news because this pattern has truly been a labor of love and also a pain in the butt. I am very particular about the fit of pants. I was not about to release a new pattern without adhering to the same fit standards that I apply to my ready to wear clients patterns. This was truly my first opportunity to define my own fit.

So let’s chat about some of the features why this is the best pant ever. The #1 biggest thing for me is the back leg seam. Typically pants consist of two main pieces- front and back. Recently designers have been taking the pant shape in different directions, one of which is seaming details. I like functionality so I needed a way for pants to be easy to alter besides just the usual side seam adjustments. Don’t you just hate the extra fabric that gaps at the back of the legs? Well, my seaming details allow one to take out the extra from the center back seam as needed. Sure I can make a pant to fit one model without that fullness, but what about all other types of bodies who need something more. This is the opportunity.

Secondly, I have been jonesing for a pair of skinny trousers that looks like something Audrey Hepburn would wear with flats. The only problem with the options I have seen is that on petites, this kind of pant just looks like a regular trouser. For all of the petite gals out there this is something sleek, skinny and sophisticated. On a 5’1″ gal this hits just above the ankle. But as all other Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Patterns, this is easily alterable for standard heights and not limited to only petites.

The only bad news at this time is that this pant is only available from sizes 00-16. Larger sizes will have to come later. It’s nothing personal, it’s just a different fit and a brand new pattern. This project was a long time in the making and about 10 fits to get it just right (yes, I am a little obsessive). I want to devote my full attention and be just as enthusiastic about the larger size pattern as well, but right now I’m a little burned out on the pants. I am hoping for spring release of the larger sizes, but I need a new shape to wrap my mind around in the meantime.

You can checkout the Manhattan Skinny: http://www.sbccpatterns.com/shop/sb305/

Whoa, what drama and stress the last two weeks have been. Here in Hoboken we were hit pretty hard by Hurricane Sandy. I was chugging along on the new site and putting the final touches on a new product, and bam.. the storm we suspected would just slow us down really hit hard and we were stranded in our home for 4 days as the flood water receded and somehow managed to survive without electricity for 7 days. The only saving grace was the fact we have a gas cookstove and hot water, and a toilet that flushed. Otherwise we would have hit the road just like most of our town did. However, it is our home and we wanted to stay despite the temperature drops and lack of light. After awhile we became quite accustomed to the inconvenience and it was a great way to connect with people, even getting to know our neighbors better.

With electricity restored we are back to our usual routines and more connected than ever to our devices we lacked. For me it is a huge relief on my guilt stricken conscious to finally announce the arrival of the new Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick website. The old site was ok visually, but technically a mess and uneditable for my purposes. It was time to dump it and start fresh with a format that will work better for everyone. Please check it out and let me know what you think.

Well, I’ve posted some photos of the muslin process on Facebook, so I thought I’d take it to the blog to give my dress a little more play. Backstory- I have a fancy Shmancy event to go to in a couple of weeks and I found this to-die for brocade at Mood that cost me a small fortune. I was definitely heavily invested so I had to follow through. Nose to the grindstone this weekend and I cranked out the dress on a Sunday afternoon. Fairly happy with the results, just a couple of things I would change, but that is the norm for me.

Fabric- this is kind of a quilted brocade. It has dimension and a little bit of fluffiness and don’t forget about the lurex. It was a bitch to handle, but I came prepared. I didn’t want to interface the whole dress because it would only make the fabric heavier. Instead I took some of my lightest weight fusible and cut some bits to go around the neckline and armholes and the top portion of the skirt where the tucks are.

Dress is fully lined with stretch silk. I usually get bored by the lining so I half-ass it. This lining was ok, but not my best.

The tucks along the front require some patience, but because these tucks are similar to SB306 pattern I knew the best way to make them. 1) pin the tucks in place first. 2) check the tuck position against the bodice to make sure they will match the bodice seams 3) baste the tucks closed, extending down into the skirt about 3/4″. 4) Sew the skirt to the bodice and then remove all basting thread.

Finishings- I have an exposed zipper on the CB closure. The zipper is pretty fancy. It has satin tape and not to be tacky, but the zipper cost me $15 alone! Can you believe it! this was the most I have ever spent on a single zipper. (I will be going back to Sil Thread for my $1.00 zippers shortly).

The dress still needs a hem, but that’s not a big deal. I am currently debating adding beading to the bodice, but that may set me behind and become more involved than I want. I have patterns to make and new releases coming shortly so no more delays!

So let’s say you are a first patternmaker- the patternmaker responsible for new designs. You got the knowledge and the skills. What happens once a sketch is made? More often than not, the designers sketch resembles a bunch of squiggly, but beautiful quickly drawn lines. You are left with the question-”Well this looks beautiful, but what is it?

Once I did some freelance during fashion week at my mentors request for the designer she worked for. The designer handed me his sketch and briefly gave explanation of the fabrication and I was left to my own devices. I was much too shy and star-struck to ask him further questions.  I stood there a little dazed and confused. Luckily said mentor has the patience of a saint. I went over to her table and whispered to her “what is this supposed to be?” She quickly deciphered his sketch and added further instructions based on his preferences. How well did I translate? ….well, I was way off.

Understanding and building a relationship with a designer and understanding their aesthetic and preferences is key to being successful. Sure knowledge and skills are also important, but assuming they already exist-  after working with someone for many years, or very closely you get to the point where that voice develops in your head that learns to question everything that the designer will: is it too short, are the proportions funny, are the pleats too deep….etc, etc. And then the key point- knowing when to stop (here’s a hint: don’t stop at the first draft). A pattern is like a work of art, it can never be finished if you are truly critical of your own work. This is true regardless of if you are a first or production patternmaker. I’ve been known to wake up in the middle of the night worried that maybe I should have added a notch at a certain point or come up with a better method for finishes, but cutting starts the next day so there is no going back. Maybe this all sounds pretty deep for a field based on engineering and mass production, but a critical eye- trained for the technicalities, design and function is what separates a good patternmaker from a great patternmaker.

In case anyone’s curious- where do I fit in? I can’t say that I’m great, I’ve still got stuff to learn. I’m not going to be completely humble either. However, I think recognizing what it takes to become great puts me closer to the goal.

The job of a patternmaker can mean different things to different people. Some see it as highly technical with lots of numbers and drafting. Others see it as just the process of making a new garment and you are done. For me the biggest parts of being a patternmaker are not what is associated in most peoples minds. This is part one of 3 part series in the reality of the job as an engineer, aesthetics and home sewing.

How do I describe my job to someone who does not understand sewing and clothing production?: I am a clothing engineer. When I first began my career in the garment industry I thought it was all about just making a template and if it goes on the body and looks ok on the hanger then it is a success. This was pretty much my mentality at my first job working as a first patternmaker. Fast forward almost 10 years later: As a production patternmaker I am responsible for not only knowing how to draft a garment but I must also problem solve through every step considering how the curves match up from piece to piece for easy sewing at the factory. (Factory workers don’t use pins. The rely on a good pattern with accurate shapes and markings.) Also taken into consideration are finishes and techniques that are ok to do in the sample room and as a one off, but understanding the parameters available to the factory and situations that may not be achievable to do 100,000 times over. As of the last few years because of the increased cost in manufacturing it has become even more important to understand how a pattern should me made for the least amount of fabric consumption possible across all of the different sizes. When I am making a pattern I am thinking 10 steps ahead of each revision I make.

Also a big portion of of the engineering side of my job is fit and quality. Once again this goes back to making a garment and it looks good- to one step further: Does it fit well? will it fit many body shapes? and identifying fit problems. I’ve come to realize over the years that the problems that show up are sometimes deeper than you think. Sometimes an issue is just a symptom of a bigger problem.

These are just some of the engineering aspects to the job, but there are tons more minutiae that pop up along the way depending on who the client is and what type of clothing is being made and circumstances involved.

Time flies when you are having fun and it’s hard to believe that fall is almost here. The last few weeks have been such a blur. Day job is sorta busy, I’ve been working with some freelance clients on their projects, and not to mention fashion week in NYC where an all points bulletin is out for any patternmaker or seamstress who can spare the time to help. I am desperate to get back to the fall patterns and quite frankly a little cranky as of late because I cannot do my stuff (not to say I do not like the side stuff and the day job, but my stuff always takes a backseat.)

Anyhoo, another kink in the works- I totally busted my machine as I was sewing a fly front zipper. My needle hit the zipper stop as I was doing the “J”-stitch and….bang!….The presser foot made a loud sound and refused to touch the sewing plate. Luckily there is a repair shop around where I live that fixes machines and makes house calls (thank God, because my machine weighs about 200LBs).  I am waiting for the repair guy as I write this.
Back to the fall stuff. I am prepping 2 blouses and a pair of pants. I really excited about everything because these styles are good transitional pieces. What I really need right now is a few good soldiers willing to pattern test for me- especially the pants. If you are able and willing please shoot me an email or comment.
What I am really excited about for fall is pants. As you have seen from previous posts, these have been the bane of my existence as of late. But I think we might finally be there and I have a fabulous feature that I think everyone who has to make pattern adjustments to pants will love.
What styles are you looking forward to for fall? What’s missing from your wardrobe?